Getting back in the sew-ing of things (hey-o!)

I'll be honest with you, readers.  I haven't been sewing much in the last year or two. I've sewn some cute, silly costumes, but they're usually a last-minute struggle against my sewing machine, not a fun and relaxing project that helps me revel in creating.  Depression has been a struggle, and I feel better than I've felt in a while.  Creativity is flowing back into me, I'm not just wrenching it out of myself anymore.  It's a good feeling.

A few weekends ago, while my boyfriend was out of town, I spent time sewing a muslin of the Colette Cooper backpack.  I'm going to make one for him in the next month or so, but I wanted to give it a run through to see where I could make it special for him and how it all comes together.

And it came together beautifully, if I do say so myself.

Top view - check out that sweet flap action!

This is the first indie pattern I've ever really used.  I have a sale-related addiction to the Big 4 (or 5?  I really like Burda, but it's really just 2 companies in the end, McCall and Simplicity.) which I am now seeing the light of the wonder of getting so much more and helping someone grow their business.

The instructions were so easy, it felt comfortable and helped me ease myself back into pattern sewing.  (I bought the Crepe pattern at the same time, so I look forward to being guided through a pretty little wrap dress as well.)

I also got suuuuuper friendly with my new pal, the edge stitching foot.  I know I need to work on the straightness of my edge stitching/top stitching, but I knew this was a muslin just for me so I didn't mind at all that things were a little wobbly/speedily done.  I'm the only one who's going to be paying any kind of attention to it.  I know I'm going to be more smooth, slow and attentive on my next sewing mission through this.

Flap open - it's got a few nice little pockets hidden under there.  I placed a bright red bird for interest.

My one main goof on this was buying 1-1/2" wide nylon webbing for the straps.  It was a last-minute run on a Sunday (when all the fabric shops in Philadelphia are closed, save one which is only going to be open a couple more Sundays..) and I forgot how smart the indication of "cotton webbing" was. (And a smaller width, too - the 1 1/2" is pretty unwieldy on a tiny person such as myself!) The straps are really uncomfortable now.  Hopefully they wear out a little bit and get more comfortable, but I'll probably just end up making little matching pads to put on them.

The handle and two straps in in the back, and a duck with weird feet

I was going to go and purchase actual muslin to do this in, but remembered how badly I need to cut back on my fabric stash, so I went shopping back in there and found this bolt of cute IKEA fabric, called Barnslig.  I know I must've bought in on clearance/as-is or something, but they sell decently sized mini-bolts (I think they're about 5 yards, by my calculation. I may have picked up another one last weekend while out shopping for nothing... I think it's going to be a cute dress.)  in these interesting prints.  I'm pretty sure they're supposed to be curtains or upholstery, but I'm one of those people who hasn't learned better than shopping in the quilting cottons for apparel, so.. there's that.  I really love this print, so instead of using the contrast for the flap like the pattern indicates, I used the main fabric for it as well.  (That, and I scrambled through my stash for just-about-enough contrast to do the bottom pieces... whoops!)

Check out this cute bear hiding in the bottom pocket!

The bottom/contrast is black taffeta that I previously used for my spaceship dress, and the lining is a red that I found.  It's a little suede-y for whatever weird reason.  It was in a remnants bin at a local fabric shop and had an interesting print, so I picked it up a while ago - for almost this express purpose - and forgot it existed.

Full of all the stuff you really need - knitting needles, iPhone cables, mascara...

The main fabric isn't structured at all, and I think this pattern needs a little something more than a lightweight cotton to dig into.  This Cooper is floppy all over, which isn't the best.  I also didn't feel like putting in the magnetic snaps, because I am lazy and it seemed a little silly at the time. (NOTE - THIS WAS A HUGE MISTAKE.  I am now holding  it together with safety pins when I over-stuff it, which may or may not be frequently when I use it.  This is not attractive or super-great for the fabric.) The flap does still keep the top of the backpack covered most of the time, but it's not secure at all.  The taffeta gives it a nice sturdy bottom, though I'm sure it'll end up getting all kinds of nicked-up and dirty soon enough.

I'm really proud of this, and it's exciting to start making beautiful and quality pieces again.  It's building up my confidence to try new things soon - like sewing knits, and working with quality fabrics instead of weird novelty prints.  (I do have like 5 yards of this AMAZING black fabric with cougar heads all over it, though... that's going to make something absurd.)  My fingers are itching to make more things and do it all well, because that little extra time I took to finish this (and the little bit more time than that I know I need to work on taking in the future) really made the difference.

Vogue 2609, or How To Halloween

What is the best fabric to make a muslin out of? Just plan muslin? Some old fabric laying around? Or could it be $2-a-yard purple satin?

I went with the last option for this year's Halloween cosutme: Vogue 2609. A 1934 design, I wanted to look my best for the party. Now, I didn't plan this costume out well in advance. Oh, no. I barely knew what I was doing a week before and had no idea what I would be that night. When I found out it was an Edward Gorey-themed party (hosted by the lovely Dances of Vice), this pattern immediately jumped out from my memory. Maybe not so turn-of-the-century as Gorey, but certainly in a fabulous and macabre feeling, if made in the proper way.

Awkwardly brushing out the edges of the caplet featured in this pattern

I've never sewn this pattern before, but I was confident in my sewing skills, so I cut out all of the pieces (including two of the godet pieces the same way - so in the final product you may or may not notice that one of the back pieces is ... not as shiny as the rest of the dress, because it's sewn in backwards) and set to work on sewing it all together.

The open-back design! (That tie at the bottom is supposed to be tacked down - pshaw, it's fine!)

What I noticed, looking at the pattern back (which I did not have the convenience of doing while I was at the fabric store, the pattern being out of print) was that it didn't have a zipper. I had bought one anyway because I figured it needed to be closed somehow. Well, this being 1934, they didn't exactly have zippers. They had snaps. And I wasn't going to put in a whole long set of snaps, because I like simple solutions. So, I ignored that part of the directions and did it my way, putting in my zipper. I felt happy to have bested the patterns of the past with the technology of the future.

The next part that unsettled me, in reading the directions, was the fact that the godet (the skirt part at the very bottom) was supposed to be appliqued on. Again, I was not doing this and decided to do it my own way, which I saw as the correct way. I just sewed the godet to the dress, as one would do - right sides together, make sure to get it all pinned down, sew together, turn right side out. (I was kind of nervous that the applique-style attatchment might not work as well, for some reason, and so I just felt more comfortable putting the skirt in the way I did.)

The last surprise of this dress was the contrast fabric. When I was getting it cut, they told me the price, which was far more than the dress fabric. I thought it was right-side out on the bolt, because it was satiny, and just said "Whatever" and went with it. Well, after I cut the pieces for the dress and went to get them ready to attatch, the two halves of the fabric didn't want to come apart. I took a pin and separated some of the remnants from my cuttings and learned - a bit to my horror - that this was no satin at all. This was some kind of terrible, weird Latex-coated fabric. There was no turning back, though, as this was probably a day or two before and I didn't want to get anything else. I would deal with it and triumph over it, as I had with the rest of this dress.

But I think, in the end, it turned out quite spectacularly in the end. I was happy to tell people that I'd made my dress, and though I personally don't have any photos of myself at the event, I did find one from someone else where I'm in the background:

Photo by Gabi Porter for MetroMix New York
(more photos here)

Yep, right there. On the right, with my lovely open back and my friend who came with me to the most magnificent Halloween party I'll probably ever attend. I hope to go more of their events sometime, just to see all the people who get so done-up! (You should search for more images and just look at all the gorgeous things people wore. Really. I was amazed.)

Advance 2709

Sorry I haven't been sewing! There's been lots of work going on at home, hence why I have only just finished hemming and photographing my newest creation, Advance 2709.

I love this pattern! Its set-in, diagonal pockets. Its six-gored skirt. The fact that it has a provision for just a shirt-waist dress as well as the full shirt dress. (I only had four buttons, so I went for the shirt-waist. Also, I hate making button holes but love shirt-waists, so... that's also a reason.)

From The Year 2050

The back of this dress has a nice yoke and gather detail and the sleeves came out quite puffy as well, which gives the dress almost a '40's style feel to the dress that looks far more '60s on the envelope. Perhaps this is also because of my height and the length that the dress ended up being. But I think this came out splendidly. I found this fabric, with its great pattern, on sale and I think this will end up being my go-to dress next summer. The fabric is really a quite thin cotton, but the fit is wonderful - it comes in close at the waist but it isn't uncomfortable.

Ah! I just can't get enough of it. I can see myself sewing this pattern again and again, but I'll probably take some length off if I make it in a solid.

Here are some more photos in a sort of natural-ish light, showing front and back.

From The Year 2050

Butterick 5032

Home from my recent vacation and I was itching to get sewing again. I had already cut the fabric for everything but the facings before I left, but we took the machine in for servicing so I couldn't start sewing.

I was excited to see how this wiggle-style dress would turn out - I thought it might be nice to have a slimmer dress in my wardrobe and I thought that it was one of the few patterns that the "running eighths" style fabric would work with.

From The Year 2050

Knowing the danger of modern patterns (this is one of the modern reprints of older Butterick patterns) I checked the measurements on the tissue and, lo-and-behold, I had to cut it a size smaller. I probably could've gone down another size on the top of the pattern - it does gap a bit around the top, tending to be more on the back.

From The Year 2050

I only noticed it as I was sewing the top and bottom together, but I had cut the whole top on the same four patterns of the running eighths and the bottom on all eight. Therefore, the whole front matches, but the back doesn't. I still think it makes a nice effect and I matched the lines dividing the patterns almost perfectly, so the effect isn't as bad as it might've been. (Also, I need to iron it.)

Overall, I really like the outcome of the pattern. It turned out a bit long on me (maybe I just have a taste for shorter skirts, but down to mid-calf is not very appealing on the petite figure) so the kick pleat in the back is a bit useless, but I think it's quite a flattering pattern. The front pleats on the skirt section are new to me, but I kind of like them. When holding the partially-finished top to myself, I thought the neckline was a bit high, but it's actually not too bad. I am a fan of the square neckline and I find the neckline on the back to be very flattering, probably on many people. I'd probably sew this again if I need another wiggle-style dress!

Butterick 4919

This continues a short series of projects I've had finished for a while but am only just getting around to blogging. (I've actually only just finished fixing the hem, which was an atrocity of shortening and not properly measuring. If you're going to shorten always measure and then measure again!!)

From The Year 2050

This is Butterick 4919, one of the recent "retro reprints" that Butterick was doing. Originally from 1952, it's been redone for modern sizing and such.

I really enjoy the waist/tie detail on this dress, though it is a bit awkward to figure out which piece goes over the other in the back. It's nice to have something that you can make as fitted or loose as you want and you can always change it if you eat that giant Thanksgiving meal or something.

I really like the fabric, but I'm a sucker for over-the-top things and the color orange. The fabric just called out to me from the shelf and I knew I had to make something grand with it, so I remembered this pattern and the rest was history!

The only real problem I recall with it was my attempt at shortening which left certain parts very long and others very short. Now it's a little bit below the knee and I think it's a good length for this style of dress. The only other thing I can remember is that I put the hooks and eyes on half-backward at first so they closed in a really bizarre way, but that was an easy fix. The front straps actually have little pleats in them (I don't remember if the pattern just calls for gathering or for pleats, but I did it this way) and they're a really nice detail.

I might make it again, who knows, but I'd like to somehow alter the way the sash goes around the front so it's more sleek.

Simplicity 1325

The other day I finally finished my most recent project: Simplicity 1325.

I was really excited to get this pattern when I did - it was on sale on eBay for only $1! I made the view with long pants and I was hoping for long sleeves, but I laid the pieces out wrong and ended up with only enough fabric for short ones. I'm alright with that, though, and I think they still look great. It's probably more comfortable this way, anyhow, with the lightness of the broadcloth I made them in.

From The Year 2050

The pants come up to the waist and have a button closure on the left - a very vintage detail. The waistband is slim itself and the closure end has a point to it, which I find to be a really nice touch.

From The Year 2050

Though the short sleeved top didn't have the bias tape detail on the collar or sleeves, I really like the look of it so I added it anyway. The collar is a bit of a mess - I haven't made one like this before, where you cover the edge where the collar joins the body with the top part of the collar. It didn't turn out too well

From The Year 2050

As you can see in this photo, the pockets and bias detail are actually straight when one's hands aren't in them. The pants came out at a really complementary length and the pleating is really nice. I used white thread throughout the project (though I strangely don't have much and kept almost running out) so there's that slight repeat to the contrast of the white of the bias tape against the green. I also altered the position of the buttons because the collar didn't come out quite right and I wanted to make sure I could unbutton the top button or two (well, where they would've been) to breathe and it wouldn't look lewd.

Once I figure out how better to sew these kind of collars, I'd be happy to make this again. I just love the retro styling and the bias detail. It's so kitschy and you just can't find it nowadays! I'd give it a 8.5/10.

Vogue 2267

Vogue 2267 or, "Why yes I do have five dresses made from the same pattern."


(And a cat.) Count 'em and weep. The top one was actually my very first sewing project not done in middle school. I, for some reason, like to get very ahead of myself so I decided to make a dress with princess seams, a zipper and two pockets (one of which is actually on the zipper). It actually came out really well and I still like and and wear it. I put the inside belt on this one, so it's not very good for eating in, but it does look and feel good otherwise.

The other four have a more interesting story. Last summer, I took a service learning trip to Ghana in West Africa. They told us that the culture there was very strict and girls were expected to wear skirts or dresses everyday. So, I remembered this great pattern (as I'd had a lot of trouble finding modest dresses that would hide my bust in mainstream stores) and how good it looked and its pockets. I'd made several dresses between my first and these and was able to whip them all up in about a week and a half. Made of quilter's cottons, I made them in four different colors so I'd have some versatility and wouldn't get bored. They all have very small patterns and I still wear those, too.

(On the teal one, you might notice that it's discolored - that's because I got into a mudfight with it on and didn't wash it out right away. I don't know how much better it would've come out if I did. Oh well.)

Here they are, the parade of champions. (The first two are the same dress - the first one I made.)

From The Year 2050

From The Year 2050

From The Year 2050

This is a pattern I'd suggest to pretty much anyone. It's probably better for more advanced sewers, but with careful instruction reading and learning what those weird terms are, even beginning sewers can be proud of this dress. The square front and back necklines I find really pretty and the pockets are always a welcome edition to a dress in my book. Though I'm sure it would look much better with a thin crinoline, it still looks great without one. It's comfortable (especially without that inner belt - unless you're really really true to measurements) and flattering.

I'd give it a 10 out of 10 every time.

Butterick 4790 aka "The Walk-Away Dress"

Today, I'm showcasing my version of Butterick 4790, the "walk-away dress". I used the reprint of the 1952 pattern. I think I may have cut it a size or two smaller than my size shown, based on the measurements listed on the pattern. It's a little tight around the waist, but that's okay.

I bought the space alien fabric a while ago and had decided I wanted to make it some kind of lining, with the outside being fabric that resembled space. I found one that was flecked with glitter, but the simple black taffeta looks better with it, I think. Even though you're only supposed to edge part of it in bias tape, I did the whole thing with alien-green bias tape (which took somewhere from 3 to 5 packages, I don't quite remember) and I think it adds a nice touch.

This was my first time working with taffeta, and I really love the way that it holds its shape so well. Even without a crinoline, you still get that full effect in the skirt. I think that the final product is out-of-this-world, if you'll pardon the pun.

Vogue 2903

Today, I decided to get a little fancy, so I did my hair up and put on one of my Vintage Vogue reprint creations, V2903.



This dress came out pretty well, but wearing it I realize that the sizing of it seems to be a bit more "vanity sized" than other Vogue patterns I've made, which can be painfully true-to-size. The shoulders are large and it is generally big on me, despite that I made it in the size that should fit my measurements. (The shoulders are especially difficult as the neckine is very open and they keep slipping off of me.)

I really do like the dress, it has a nice retro look to it - especially with all the accessories. Though I was intimidated by it (and its huge amount of fabric) at first, it wasn't that complex and I found it a fairly easy sewing job. The back zipper is somewhat oddly set in the middle of the back rather than opening all the way at the top of the back seam and I forgot to put pockets into this one.

Overall, I enjoy it and would probably rate it an 8/10. I'll have to remake it a size smaller and see how much I like it then.



[I pincurled my hair overnight and am wearing jade earrings, a vintage pearl two-strand necklace and a braided brown belt to cinch the waist.]